Digest: Fermented Chickpea 'Tofu'

Fermentation is, for me, perhaps the most magical transformative process of cooking. Perhaps that is because it is a process that really does not involve the cook. A concoction is just left alone, and them with time as the chef, it becomes something other than it was. The many metaphors and metaphysics of this process have been lovingly explored by Sandor Katz a culinary food hero of mine. I suppose I think about how this metaphor extends to sound and music, another time-based art (like I would argue cooking is). By playing holding a note for a long time, it becomes something other than it was in quarter. By listening persistently to apparent silence, it transforms. Anyways, enough philosophy! This recipe comes out of curiosity— what happens if I just let this batter sit. Well, the result is incredibly savory, delicious and profoundly nuanced in texture and flavor.

Chickpea tofu here with fennel powder, vegan creamy white garlic sauce, raddichio, carrot, red yuzu cucumber, black garlic turnip, pickled onion and pepper, seaweed, crisp peas, mango, and nigella seed

Serves 2

Ingredients:

  • 1 cup chickpea flour

  • 1 3/4 cup + 2 TBS lukewarm water, divided

  • 1/2 tsp salt

  • any other herb or mix in

Method:

  1. Thoroughly whisk together all ingredients with 1 3/4 cup water (or use an immersion blender). Put batter in a container with a cloth rubber-banded on top to protect it from pests or dust.

  2. Let batter sit for 2-3 days, occasionally whisking the batter. It should change color to be lighter, develop bubbles, and smell picante.

  3. When ready to use, whisk in remaining 2 TBS water.

  4. Pour into a saucepan on medium-low heat, stirring constantly, until the batter becomes thick, shiny, and when tasted does not taste like raw flour.

  5. Pour batter into a mold. I like a small 5 X 8” pyrex, but any shape will work. Line with parchment to prevent sticking if you are not using glass.

  6. Let tofu sit for 1 hour in fridge until set. Drain any excess water. Now it can be used raw, fried, or baked.

  7. My preferred method crisps the edges and leaves the inside gooey: Preheat oven to 400F. Grease a parchment lined sheet pan lightly with oil. Put cubes of tofu onto hot pan, and roast, tossing to ensure all sides are browned.